A boat in the small harbour of Vathy dragged their anchor in the dark at 10pm – then snagged someone’s chain in an attempt to reset. In the maritime tradition, I got into the dinghy to help them. This is a bit unusual – most Med cruisers like to stand on their bows and shout insults and orders at people having trouble. Anyway, this particular good deed went a bit sideways. In the darkness and the gusty wind, the boats anchor gored the pontoon of our dinghy…I believe I only gritted my teeth as the air whooshed out of the bow of the boat (although I can’t say for sure)! In the end, I untangled the anchor and helped them reset. Next day, we found some inflatable glue – and the hole was patched…holding well after 48 hours!
We departed Kos with the Weiders and Rectors. The Rectors left us for an on-shore call with the Hemphills in Mirties (on the west side of Kalymnos) and we have spent the last four days cruising north with the Weiders. Just outside of Vathy, Kalymnos, we spotted this amazing beach between the rocks…we backed Coral in for a most amazing lunch and swim in a location worthy of a movie-set.
After Datca, we went to Knidos…unfortunately the Gordon Girls were not there! Much disappointment shared by all the crew. Photo from last year!
We sailed around to Bozborum. we had a sweet anchorage but a late afternoon arrival of a Gulet that parked just a bit too close was a tad annoying. We headed to Bodrum for our last night in Turkey with the Rectors. It was hot but no where close to as hot as last summer. Due to some errors made leaving Marmaris (99% by me), we did not have the correct stamps to leave Bodrum so to exit Turkey – I had a quick 2 hour drive down the coast for a stamp. I could give you a full diatribe on how the modern age of faxes and emails could have saved me a lot of driving – but suffice to say…everything was put in order and we departed for Kos, Greece (all 8 n.miles away) and a rendezvous with the Hemphills and Weiders!
We arrived in Marmaris on July 3rd…all was in order except the refrigeration gas had leaked out. We got refilled on July 4th and just anchoured off a resort beach in the Marmaris Bay. We stopped next at Serce Limani – a quiet cove – after a long and very windy beat for 20 miles up the straight between Marmaris Peninsula and Rhodes. Next, we headed to Datca…anchouring off the main town beach. The photo at sunrise looking East of two Jeanneaus anchoured outside us.
We had a simple but amazing lunch in the industrial district down the hill from the Grand Bazaar.
The tasty concoction started with stewed tomatos and peppers with a local hot pepper spice and a dollup of a cream cheese – then shredded meat and cheese added with an egg on top – served with unlimited fresh bread – absolutely outstanding. It was so good – we went back for dinner two days later!
I realize we’re jumping around in time here, having already posted greetings from Bozburun, but time has been all out of shape here. Especially without daily access to wifi– the injustice! But let’s return briefly to Istanbul, where we did in fact manage to find our way out of tiny restaurants long enough to see the big monuments: the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and so on. And on our last day there, while Carolyn, Denise and Lucy took themselves off to the Cemberlitas hamam for a little last minute scrubbing and suddsing, I went north-west to see the St. Saviour (or Keriye) Church, home of what are supposed to be some of the best Byzantine mosaics still in existence. The Blue Mosque, first on the list, came with some unexpected wardrobe additions– in effect, hospital-gown burkas for Carolyn and Lucy. No pictures available at press time (or none that Lucy knows about). A massive, spectacular and incredibly ornate space: gold inlay, hundreds of thousands of priceless tiles, the dome defying physics in height and width and weight. And the Hagia Sophia still grander. My little church, so humble on the outside, was just as spectacular, just on the much smaller scale of mosaics planted into squat little domes.
The Blue Mosque:
The Sultan’s bedroom, at the centre of the Harem in Topkapi palace:
The ‘Harrowing of Hell’ in the dome of the St. Saviour/Kariye church (not a bad photo for an Iphone!):